Land of a thousand elephants
From Pai, in the land of the smile, I travelled to Laos, the land of a thousand elephants (though I haven't spotted any elephants yet). First stop was Luang Namtha. Though bumpy and steep, the drive uphill to Luang Namtha was absolutely spectaculair. Atop the hill, beautiful valleys with trees and small riverstreams appear.
The center of this town, in the north of Laos, is quiet and small. There is one main street, which you can easily walk in under 10 minutes. This is the street were you'll see most guesthouses, some combined with a restaurant. Though eco tourism is on the uprise in this area, you will not see mega hotels in this area, there is no party scene. Luang Namtha is for nature lovers that love to explore and come back to town to relax with a cold Beerlao (Lao beer).
The majority of inhabitants in Luang Namtha consists of minorities. These live in the rural areas, in the mountains of Luang Namtha. In collaboration with the different tour operators in town, these villages welcome small groups of foreigners with a maximum of 2 visits a week, with operators being assigned parts of the area which do not overlap. During a tour you will therefore never encounter another group.
Though some traditions in these villages are still intact, when visiting you'll see that these tribes are a lot more modernised than you'd think. Villages have electricity and can connect with the outside world via satellite dishes and phones. Traditional clothing has made room for store bought clothing. But there are some things that can never be perfected by industrialisation. The art of making paper with bamboo pulp, the hand weaving of fabric, the braiding of baskets, the making of traditional musical instruments. These are all traditions that these minorities are struggling to keep intact as young members seem to be rapidly choosing different paths.
Exploring Luang Namtha
Joining a trekking tour is the best way to explore the mountains of Luang Namtha. One day is enough to explore the beauty of the area, but if you're feeling adventurous, there are tours that take up several days and include homestays in a few villages. Different agencies offer different routes, so if you're looking for a specific route you might want to do some research first.
If you're hoping to spot mountain lions, wild elephants or even monkeys, Luang Namtha is not the place for you. Though trekking, even for several days, is possible with a guided tour, the chances you will spot any of these animals are slim. What you will encounter are large trees, with beautiful exposed and entwined roots, a large array of butterflies and colourful insects you might not have seen before. The trees will sometimes open up, like a beautiful frame, to expose a the mountains on the other side of the valley.
During the day, your guide will provide you with special, jungle-cooked, meals. Check out this display of food. The jungle soup in the middle was cooked in bamboo, found in the forest.
Next to it being a great way to meet new people from all around the world (it sometimes felt like the united nations) another way of exploring the area is by joining a kayak tour. There are not a lot of things that will make you feel as small as being in a tiny boat, partly being pushed by the river's stream, in between mountains covered in different shades of green and red.
For lunch, you're treated with different Lao dishes, accompanied by fish that has been cooked on an open fire. This all is traditionally eaten with sticky rice. You will easily get used to eating this all with your hands. Next to it being a wonderful experience, it is simply delicious.
In town
After a day of trekking or kayaking, nothing is better than taking a cold shower and head to town to relax for bit and eat dinner. To be hones, if you're used to the intricate combination of spices and flavours used in Thai cuisine, Lao cuisine might be a little disappointing. A traditional Lao meal consists of different little dishes, accompanied by sticky rice. This does look beautiful, but so far most dishes contain oyster sauce and thus all seem to taste about the same. Though the river weed (looks like Japanese nori, but with adds garlic, tomato and sesame it's way more flavourful) is my favourite and delicious for dipping a small ball of sticky rice.
If you are a picky eater, Luang Namtha also provides enough western style food, like pizza, pasta and hamburgers and Thai cuisine. And if you're feeling adventurous, try the night market, which offers a different variety of grilled meat.
Speaking of markets, the morning market, which is at the edge of town, offers a variety of vegetables, fruit, meat and other delights. The colourful presentations will put a smile on your face. If you're in Luang Namtha, make time to visit, it is big and impressive. Though it might not fit with western standards of animal welfare as you will see live animals (chicken, frogs, fish) in small spaces waiting to be bought and slaughtered.
Hungry for more? Check out my photo gallery here.
